The previous post in this blog is Running With The Bulls.
The next post in this blog is Emerald Isle.

Travel : Monterosso, Italy

A dramatic meeting of mountains and sea is what makes the Italian Riviera so alluring - a classic journey for travelers fond of Italy. Here, terraced vineyards and quaint villages cling to rugged cliffs. Turquoise waters fill quiet coves. Small fishing boats drop anchor by lavish yachts. And olive groves, pine forests and wildflowers line ancient footpaths. By foot, train and boat with Backroads, explore the Cinque Terre, named for its five charming villages. Dine on the region's specialities: fresh seafood, pasta al pesto and crisp white wines.

The Cinque Terre refers to the five remote villages along the Ligurian coast that are found between Genova and La Spezia. This region is also known as the Italian Riviera. We walked along coastal paths that skirt dramatic cliffs, wind through impossibly terraced vineyards, and pass centuries old fishing villages. The seafood is excellent and the region is renowned for unsurpassed pesto. Ligurian wines are white, light, and delicious.

Monterrosso is the largest of the Cinque Terre villages . Men tend to the boats and vineyards and the women talk and work at their daily chores while thie children play together in the narrow streets.

The Cinque Terre is famed for the beauty of its coastline, its picturesque villages, and ancient system of footpaths which, for centuries, were the only land link with the outside world. It is debated whether the finest coastal walk in Europe is from Vernazza to Corniglia or from Corniglia to Vernazza! We, of course, include the entire classic coastal path to visit the small villages clinging precariously to buttresses of rock or the sides of steep ravines. But perhaps more interesting is the real Cinque Terre - the "Five Lands" themselves - in the hills behind the villages and terraced vineyards. Here option excursions along more remote paths offer spectacular views and inspiring walking, descending to picturesque villages with excellent sea food and a train ride home!

Monterosso - the first of the Cinque Terre villages, divided into new and old parts. The old part comprises the castle, Capucin convent (with a painting of St Francis attributed to Van Dyke) and medieval village. The new village is built along the extensive beach and promenade.

Levanto - medieval walls, loggia and 13C castle on a promontory contrast with the once grand and fashionable 19C and early 20C resort. Neo-classical buildings and palm trees are set beside narrow medieval alleys and buildings with their origins in the 8C, with a wide beach which offers excellent swimming.

Vernazza - the former Roman port of "Vulnetia". Above the village is the pilgrim church of Madonna di Reggio.

Manarola - set on a massive buttress of rock, the town is of Roman origin and has the remains of a castle and also a church built in 1338 with a fine rose window.

Riomaggiore - another spectacular (slightly larger) village with a long history, castle and church, and attractive harbour. It is linked to Manarola by the paved coastal promenade called the Via dell'Amore.

Santuary church of Montenero - founded in 790 containing a miraculous picture in Byzantine style depicting the Virgin on a cloud, with 11 disciples.

Portovenere - of Roman/Byzantine origin, though the present village is predominately medieval with a massive fortress and fortified houses along the port. The promontory, once the site of a temple to Venus, is now surmounted by a Gothic church to San Pietro. In the harbour are moored small colourful fishing boats whilst along the quay are restaurants and bars.

This is where we ended up at and took a boat back to Monterosso
Cinque Terre literally means "Five Lands" but in fact refers to the five charming fishing villages that lie between Levanto in the north and in the south: Monterrosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore. Cinque Terre allows the traveller to embrace - literally - the mountains as they meet the sea via a hiking path which connects these humble villages. The best way to visit the area, for the more adventurous, is on foot along the rugged paths that afford spectacular views at every turn.

The path that connects the five villages has its roots in Roman times when commerce required a means to get from one to the other, at a time when roads did not exist. Walking along the path as it cuts in and out of olive groves, vineyards, pampas grass and mountainous rubble reveals a path that transcends rubble, ancient Roman steps carved into the hill, patterned placed bricks and slabs of cut rock. It's all part of the path. The terrain one must walk occasionally is level, but most of the time winds up and down the slopes of this steep hillside as it meets the Mediterranean ocean. Working from the south and heading north:

Riomaggiore
At first glance Riomaggiore appears the least interesting of the group. But once you arrive on the other side of the tunnel, and see the topsy turvy houses in a disarray of pastel colors, you realize why Riomaggiore has become a popular spot for artists that have settled here. The narrow stretch of path leading out of Riomaggiore towards Manarola is called Via del'Amore" or "Lovers Path", and along the way various paths lead to isolated rocks often used by sunbathers. This area is particular well suited to a day in the sun and water, pleasantly interrupted by a long lunch, the ample cucina di mare. There are also paths leading to sanctuaries, built to protect the fishermen from rugged seas and crashing waves.

Manarola
The village of Manarola, only a half hour walk from Riomaggiore, is perched majestically along a rock promontory with terraced vineyards as a backdrop. There is a secondary footpath leading up the mountainside to the village of Volastra, where after an hours climb, one can survey the coast from 1000 feet above sea level. Half an hours trek from Manarola, stop for a swim in the cool waters of the Ligurian Sea. A further half an hours walk brings one to...

Corniglia
It is worth the extra climb up the winding stairs to the village to see the most breathtaking views of Cinque Terre coastline from this tiny jewel perched above the sea. Once there, take a rest and enjoy a glass of the local white wine (Cinque Terre DOC) said to be the finest wine in the area.

Vernazza
Perhaps to be the prettiest of all the villages and more typical of an Italian Riviera fishing village like Porto Fino and Santa Marguerite to the north. It sits in the shelter of a rocky cove, the dark rocks making a dramatic contrast behind the brightly colored houses, ancient church and castle that sits alongside the path as you descend into town. Vernazza is a popular overnight stop (although there are few places to stay), especially in the summer months when Italians, as well as foreign tourists, flock to the area. For those not wishing to make the two hour hikd from Vernazza to Monterosso, there is a boat that portages back and forth between the two.

Monterosso Al Mare
Monterosso can claim the only sandy beach in the area, and along with Riomaggiore, offers more than scenery. This is the largest of the five and has become fully developed into a resort - beach houses, rooms for let line the shore and many restaurants are tucked in and out of its ancient cobbled streets. Monterosso is a living village most of the year (during off seasons it is far more charming and intimate) and its enormous fortified castle that stands against the sea lends a healthy dose of charm.